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Artworks

Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs · 1825
Art Institute of Chicago

Akhnif (Man's Cape)
Ait Ouaouzguite Confederation
Wool and cotton: wedge and slit tapestry weave; embroidered with wool and cotton in heavy chain, herring bone, interlacing, and stem stitches; twined and wrapped main warp cut fringe; added wrapped cut fringe and leather binding stitched with hemp · 1825
Art Institute of Chicago

Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs · 1825
Art Institute of Chicago

Ceremonial Waist Sashes (ikak pinggang)
Minangkabau
Cotton and silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped cotton, bands of plain weave, plain weave with supplementary patterning wefts, weft-faced, warp ribbed plain weave, and slit tapestry weave; ends of wool, plain weave; fulled; with hammered white metal fitting and fringe of chain and cut, hammered end pieces · 1801
Art Institute of Chicago

Ceremonial Waist Sash (ikak pinggang)
Minangkabau
Cotton, silk, and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped cotton, bands of weft-faced warp ribbed plain weave, plain weave with supplementary patterning wefts, and bands of slit tapestry weave; ends of wool, plain weave; fulled; edged with tape of cotton and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped cotton, and gilt-metal strip; plain weave with secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; underlaid with tape of cotton, plain weave with extended paired weft and gilt-metal coil fringe · 1801
Art Institute of Chicago

Woman's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; edged with silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp float-faced 5:1 satin weave with weft-float faced 1:2 'Z' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; trimmed with braid of gilt-metal-strip-wrapped linen, 1:1 oblique interlacing; sleeves: silk, warp-float faced 2:1 'Z' twill weave; pleated; lined with silk, plain weave (new); metal buttons · 1790
Art Institute of Chicago

Emperor's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; embroidered with silk in satin and stem stitches; painted details; sleeves: bands of silk, plain weave and of silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk, plain weave; edging and closures: silk, cotton, and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; lined with silk, satin damask weave; sleeves lined with cotton, plain weave; metal buttons · 1790
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel
Manchu
Center: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave (kossu); painted; inner tape: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped cotton, plain weave with supplementary patterning warps; outer tape: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave self-patterned by complementary ground weft floats; edged with cotton, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; glazed; backed with cotton, plain weave · 1775
Art Institute of Chicago

Man's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; cuffs trimmed with gilt-metal-strip-wrapped linen couched with silk; sleeves, neck trim, and cuff edging: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; neck edging, cuff trim, and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; trimmed with braid of gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, 1:1 oblique interlacing with triple elements; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave; cuffs lined with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; metal buttons · 1750
Art Institute of Chicago

Banners (Set of Four)
Manchu
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with eccentric and interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave; metal fittings · 1750
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel (Dress Fabric)
Manchu
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave (kossu) with eccentric wefts; painted; edged and backed with cotton, plain weave · 1750
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel (Furnishing Fabric)
Manchu
Silk and wool, slit tapestry weave · 1750
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel (Furnishing Fabric)
Manchu
Silk and wool, slit tapestry weave · 1750
Art Institute of Chicago

Man's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe)
Manchu
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; cuffs trimmed with gilt-metal-strip-wrapped linen couched with silk; sleeves, neck trim, and cuff edging: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; neck edging, cuff trim, and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; trimmed with braid of gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, 1:1 oblique interlacing with triple elements; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave; cuffs lined with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; metal buttons · 1750
Art Institute of Chicago

Thanka (Religious Picture)
Manchu
Silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details in colors, black, and with gold leaf; outer scroll top: silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning wefts and self-patterned by ground weft floats; scroll wrapper: silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with 1:2 'S' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts and self-patterned by main warp and ground weft floats; rayon and cotton ties; scroll wrapper lined with silk, warp-float faced 2:1 'S' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave · 1743
Art Institute of Chicago

Thanka (Religious Picture)
Manchu
Silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details in colors, black, and with gold leaf; outer scroll top: silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning wefts and self-patterned by ground weft floats; scroll wrapper: silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with 1:2 'S' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts and self-patterned by main warp and ground weft floats; rayon and cotton ties; scroll wrapper lined with silk, warp-float faced 2:1 'S' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave · 1743
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel (Former Fragment of Man's Coat)
Manchu
Center: silk, slit tapestry weave with eccentric and interlaced outlining wefts; painted; border: silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with weft-float faced 1:2 twill interlacings of secondary binding warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, 3:1 twill damask weave · 1700
Art Institute of Chicago

Jiasha (Mantle)
Han-Chinese
Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; pieced; painted details; edged with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave; lined with silk, plain weave · 1700
Art Institute of Chicago

Jiasha (Mantle)
Han-Chinese
Silk, gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, and peacock feathers, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining; silk, 1:1 plain oblique interlaced tapes; lined with silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave · 1650
Art Institute of Chicago

Coca Bag
Inca
Cotton and wool (camelid), slit tapestry weave with bands of two-color complementary weft plain weave with three-span floats; joined with wool (camelid) in cross-knit loop and overcast stitches · 1532
Art Institute of Chicago

Fragment (Loincloth)
Chimú
Cotton and wool (camelid), slit tapestry weave; edged with plain weave extended weft cut fringe · 1250
Art Institute of Chicago

Panel
Chimú
Cotton and camelid wool, slit tapestry weave with eccentric wefts · 1250
Art Institute of Chicago

Fragment (Loincloth)
Chimú
Cotton and wool (camelid), slit tapestry weave; edged with plain weave extended weft cut fringe · 1250
Art Institute of Chicago

Loincloth Panel
Chimú
Cotton and wool (camelid), slit tapestry weave; edged with plain weave extended weft cut fringe · 1250
Art Institute of Chicago