Manchu

1825 · Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gilt-metal-strip-wrapped silk in knot, satin, and stem stitches; laid work and couching; lined with silk, plain weave

28.5 × 28.6 cm (11 1/4 × 11 1/4 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

1825 · Silk, slit tapestry weave; painted details; upper sleeves: silk, satin weave self-patterned by areas of twill weave; lower sleeves: silk, twill weave; impressed ribs

151.4 × 199.7 cm (59 5/8 × 78 5/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

1775 · Silk, 1:1 plain gauze weave; embroidered in stem filling stitches; sleeves: silk, 1:1 plain gauze weave (figured); edging and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 4:1 satin weave with supplementary brocading wefts; neck trimmed with cords of gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk couched with silk; sleeves and cuffs lined with silk, 1:1 plain gauze weave

138.4 × 202.9 cm (54 1/2 × 79 7/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

1750 · Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; cuffs trimmed with gilt-metal-strip-wrapped linen couched with silk; sleeves, neck trim, and cuff edging: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; neck edging, cuff trim, and closures: silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave with plain interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts; trimmed with braid of gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, 1:1 oblique interlacing with triple elements; lined with silk, 4:1 satin damask weave; cuffs lined with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; metal buttons

149 × 211 cm (58 5/8 × 83 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

1743 · Silk, slit tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details in colors, black, and with gold leaf; outer scroll top: silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with supplementary patterning wefts and self-patterned by ground weft floats; scroll wrapper: silk, warp-float faced 5:1 satin weave with 1:2 'S' twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts and self-patterned by main warp and ground weft floats; rayon and cotton ties; scroll wrapper lined with silk, warp-float faced 2:1 'S' twill weave self-patterned by areas of plain weave

371.1 × 126.2 cm (146 × 49 3/4 in.) Wrapper: 128.4 × 42.1 cm (50 1/2 × 16 1/2 in.) Cover repeat: 56.4 × 12 cm (22 1/4 × 4 3/4 in.) Lining repeat (width): 16.5 cm (6 1/2 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

1720 · Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper strips, 1:1 plain gauze weave with supplementary brocading wefts; cuff trim: silk, plain weave; neck trim and closures: silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; lined with silk, plain weave self-patterned by areas of 1:1 plain gauze crossings; cuffs lined with silk, plain weave; metal buttons

134 × 188.8 cm (52 3/4 × 74 3/8 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago

1700 · Silk and gold-leaf-over-lacquered-paper-strip-wrapped silk, slit and dovetailed tapestry weave with interlaced outlining wefts; painted details; lined with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave

101.5 × 104.9 cm (40 × 41 1/2 in.)

Art Institute of Chicago